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When compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble restaurant securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary honour.